Enjoy your ride, every day counts!
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Use this once at the start of winter, then scan it monthly. Each step includes quick checks, actions, and what to buy if something’s off.
At a glance (what “good” looks like)
- Battery charges at room temperature, holds charge predictably, and connectors are clean.
- Tires show no sidewall cracks; pressure set slightly lower for grip; tread matches conditions.
- Brakes bite early and evenly; rotors run true; pads have ≥1 mm friction material.
- Lights are bright, well-aimed, and survive rain; reflectivity visible from the sides.
- Drivetrain shifts quietly under load; chain wear ≤0.5% (on 11/12-speed ≤0.3%).
- Bolts are snug to spec; wheels straight; no play in headset, bottom bracket, or hubs.
- Cables/connectors are strain-free and weather-protected; display shows no error codes.
- Suspension moves freely in the cold; fenders don’t rub; no salt crust on exposed parts.
- Short shakedown ride confirms smooth braking, shifting, and stable electricals.
- You know your winter range baseline (Wh/mi or Wh/km) and carry a simple repair kit.
Tools & supplies (keep on the bench)
Hex/Torx keys, torque wrench, chain checker, tire pump with gauge, brake cleaner/isopropyl alcohol, shop towels, wet-conditions chain lube, light threadlocker, dielectric grease, anti-seize, cable ties, spare tube/patch kit, mini-pump/CO₂, nitrile gloves, small brush.
Step 1 — Battery & charging habits
Check
- Visual: no swelling, odor, leakage, or heat spots.
- Charge behavior: charges normally indoors at 15–25 °C (59–77 °F).
- Connectors: clean, tight, no greenish corrosion.
- State of charge (SOC) after storage: still within expected range.
Do
- Charge and top-off at room temperature; never fast-charge a cold battery.
- For weekly riding, keep daily use roughly 20–80% SOC.
- For multi-week storage, leave ~40–60% SOC and store cool/dry.
- Wipe contacts, add a thin smear of dielectric grease to exposed low-voltage plugs (not on high-voltage blade contacts unless specified by the manufacturer).
Fix/Buy if needed
- Certified replacement charger (match voltage & connector), battery cover/insulating sleeve, fire-retardant charging mat, smart outlet/timer.
Step 2 — Tires, tread & pressure for winter grip
Check
- Sidewalls for cracking/cuts; tread depth; embedded debris.
- Pressure with a reliable gauge (expect to run 5–15% lower than summer for grip).
- For snow/ice: consider winter compounds or studded tires.
Do
- Set pressure to the maker’s safe range for your load and terrain; verify before each ride.
- If you ride regular ice, choose studded tires (front first, then rear).
- Carry a spare tube even on tubeless setups (sealant can fail in extreme cold).
Fix/Buy if needed
- Winter/studded tires, quality gauge, tire levers, sealant, tubeless repair plugs.
Step 3 — Brakes: pads, rotors & feel
Check
- Pad thickness: ≥1 mm friction material (not counting backing plate).
- Rotor true: no rub-rub sound when spun; no blue heat spots.
- Lever feel: consistent bite point; no squishiness (may indicate air/contamination).
Do
- Clean rotors with isopropyl alcohol; bed-in new pads (10–15 firm stops).
- Realign calipers: loosen, squeeze lever, re-tighten evenly.
- If hydraulic and lever pulls to the bar, bleed per manufacturer spec.
Fix/Buy if needed
- Sintered pads (better wet performance), fresh rotors, bleed kit/fluid (correct type: mineral/DOT), rotor truing fork.
Step 4 — Lights & 360° visibility
Check
- Front light bright enough for your speed; beam aimed to avoid dazzling.
- Rear light stable/flash mode; visible from 100 m+; side reflectors intact.
- Mounts tight; IP-rated for rain; cables tidy.
Do
- Run front + rear lights at all times in winter gloom.
- Add reflective tape to fork blades, crank arms, seatstays, and helmet edges.
- Consider a helmet-mounted light to “look through” corners.
Fix/Buy if needed
- High-output bar light, dedicated tail light with daytime flash, reflective stickers, USB charging dock.
Step 5 — Drivetrain: chain, cassette & shifting
Check
- Chain wear with a checker (replace around 0.5%; for 11/12-speed many replace earlier).
- Pulleys spin freely; cassette teeth not shark-finned.
- Shifting under load smooth; no skipping.
Do
- Degrease and re-lube with wet-conditions lube; wipe excess.
- Index shifting: a quarter-turn on barrel adjuster can cure most minor hesitations.
- Replace chain proactively to protect cassette/chainring.
Fix/Buy if needed
- New chain, lube, quick links, pulley wheels, cable/housing kit.
Step 6 — Frame, wheels & fasteners (the quiet safety)
Check
- Wheels: spin true; no side-to-side wobble; spokes evenly tensioned by sound/feel.
- Headset: hold front brake, rock bike—no play.
- Axles/through-bolts, stem/handlebar, seatpost clamp, racks/fenders: snug to spec.
Do
- Use a torque wrench; follow the manufacturer’s torque values.
- Anti-seize on steel-into-alloy threads; light threadlocker where specified (e.g., rotor bolts).
- Re-tension fender stays to prevent tire rub.
Fix/Buy if needed
- Replacement bolts/washers, torque wrench, anti-seize, threadlocker.
Step 7 — Suspension & contact points
Check
- Fork/shock cycle smoothly in the cold; seals not weeping.
- Set sag appropriate to your weight with winter clothing.
- Grips dry and tacky; contact points comfortable with gloves.
Do
- Add slightly slower rebound for icy chatter; temperature can thin/slow fluids.
- Consider pogies/bar mitts, insulated gloves, and wider pedals or pins for winter boots.
Fix/Buy if needed
- Service kit/seals, winter-weight gloves or pogies, grippy pedals, comfort saddle.
Step 8 — Electronics: wiring, sensors & display
Check
- Harness routing: no tight bends; no crushed sections under zip-ties.
- Connectors: seated fully with gasket lips in place.
- Display/controller shows no error codes; speed sensor aligned to magnet.
Do
- Add a tiny bead of dielectric grease around low-voltage connector gaskets.
- Secure loose wires with soft straps; avoid sharp edges and fork crown pinch points.
- If firmware updates are supported by the brand/app, apply stable releases before peak season.
Fix/Buy if needed
- Replacement magnet/sensor, spare display mount, gentle cable sheathing, extra zip-ties/Velcro straps.
Step 9 — Weatherproofing, cleaning & salt control
Check
- Fenders cover at least 40–50% of wheel arc; mudflap near ground.
- Drip lines: water doesn’t flow toward connectors.
- Salt residue on fork crown, chainstay bridge, motor casing, and kickstand plate.
Do
- Never pressure-wash the motor/bearing areas; hose on “rain” setting or bucket + sponge.
- Rinse salt promptly; dry and re-lube chain the same day.
- Clear frame film on rub points (cable slap, bag straps).
Fix/Buy if needed
- Full fenders with stays, frame protection tape, gentle bike wash, corrosion inhibitor (frame-safe).
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Step 10 — Shakedown ride & winter range baseline
Do
- Take a 10–20 min ride mixing climbs, stops, and steady cruising.
- Listen for rubs/clicks; re-check rotor/pad clearance and fender alignment.
- Log distance, watt-hours used, average speed, temperature, and wind.
- Compute Wh/mi (or Wh/km) to set your personal winter range expectation.
- Pack a simple winter kit: tube, levers, pump/CO₂, multi-tool, tire plugs, gloves, space blanket.
Outcome
- You now know how far you can go today in your local conditions, not last summer’s.
Quick troubleshooting table
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fast fix |
|---|---|---|
| Sudden 20–30% less range | Cold-soaked battery, soft tires, headwind | Charge indoors, insulate battery, add 3–5 PSI, reduce speed by 2–3 mph |
| Brakes squeal when wet | Contaminated pads/rotor, glazed pads | Clean with alcohol, lightly scuff pads, re-bed |
| Light flickers on bumps | Loose mount/connector | Tighten mount, re-seat plug, add a drop of dielectric grease |
| Random cut-outs | Loose battery, pinched harness | Re-seat battery, inspect cable pinch points, add soft ties |
| Chain skips under load | Worn chain/cassette or mis-index | Replace chain (check wear), fine-tune barrel adjuster |
Optional add-ons that pay off in winter
- Studded front tire (control the steering on ice), then rear if budget allows.
- High-output front light + separate tail light with daytime flash.
- Full-coverage fenders with mudflaps.
- Pogies/bar mitts to keep fingers functional for braking.
- Dielectric grease and frame protection film.
FAQs
Q1. Can I charge the battery in a cold garage?
Charge at room temperature whenever possible. If the pack is cold, bring it indoors, let it reach room temp, then charge.
Q2. What’s the best storage level if I won’t ride for a few weeks?
Around 40–60% SOC in a cool, dry place. Check monthly and top up if it falls below ~30–40%.
Q3. Do I really need studded tires?
If you meet black ice or packed snow regularly, yes—start with the front tire. If roads are mostly wet/slushy, a winter tread with lower pressure may suffice.
Q4. Can I hose-wash the bike?
Use bucket/sponge or a hose on gentle “rain” flow. Avoid blasting bearings, motor seals, and connectors.
Q5. How much range will I lose in winter?
Plan for a 15–30% reduction depending on temperature, wind, and tire choice. Your own Wh/mi baseline from Step 10 is the most reliable guide.
Copy-paste checklist (print or save)
- Battery charged at room temp; SOC plan set (daily 20–80%; storage 40–60%).
- Connectors inspected and lightly greased; harness strain-free.
- Tires free of damage; winter pressure set; flats kit packed.
- Brakes cleaned, bedded, and rub-free; pads ≥1 mm.
- Lights aimed; spare rear light or battery carried; reflectivity added.
- Chain cleaned/lubed; chain wear within limits; shifting smooth.
- Critical bolts torqued; wheels true; no headset play.
- Suspension responsive; contact points winter-ready (gloves/pogies).
- Fenders aligned; salt rinse routine ready; no pressure washing.
- Shakedown ride done; Wh/mi baseline recorded; mini repair kit onboard.
